My fellow Scottish mate and I went down to Cornwall on a ten day jaunt in Summer 2006 - the first time for both of us to go down to the West Country of England, and actually going right down into what is known as the "toe" of England - the Cornish Peninsula - was even more exciting for me than it was for my friend, who is the same age as I am.
Neither of us had been to the South West of England before - although one set of my grandparents (one Scottish - her, and the other English - him) moved down to a village near Hereford a few years ago, Herefordshire being not quite that far down south west, being one of what is known as the Marcher counties - ie English counties bordering onto Wales, Herefordshire actually being a South West Midlands county, officially. Although Herefordshire borders onto Wales it is very much an English county in character in every way, and having visted my grandparents several times down there I noticed it's very pronounced "Englishness" very much - not only is the gentle rolling landscape exceptionally beautiful, with it's very green landscape, red soil, thick woodlands and lush meadows alongside the rivers - especially the River Wye, acres and acres of apple orchards (think Bulmers cider and that's Herefordshre - especially the mind blowing, gut corroding scrumpy cider - which the locals pronounce something like "zoider" - as in Somerset. Herefordshire is full of little villages and towns full of lovely old black and white timbered houses and cottages, 12th/13th century churches built in so many different styles, and old mansions and stately houses, one of which is apparently going to be the home of Prince William and his girlfriend Kate Middleton once they get married. It's in that bit of Herefordshire between Hereford city itself, and amazingly beautiful Ross-on-Wye.
The local acent in Herefordshire varies between the western parts (close to Wales) and the eastern parts, further into England. A definite Welsh lilt occurs in the people living in the western parts, and a distinctly West Country type accent in the easten parts, although with the younger people it's predominantly RP English English, with traces of Estuary - as ever. Nearby are the Malvern Hills, an amazing range of hills (remnants of prehistoric volcanoes) rising up to a height of c.350m and which form the boundary betwen Herefordshire and Worcestershire, and once into Worcestershire you are heading towards Birmingham and the Black Country, and around Worcester city the accent becomes clearly West Midlands, with the first traces of Brummie taking over as you get further up towards Kidderminster,Redditch and Bromsgrove.
Anyway, back to Cornwall and the trip my mate and I went on, driving all the way down from Edinburgh. We were no way in a hurry so we took it easy, even though we used the motorways for the most part, just ventung off now and again just to mooch around. My mate had never been further south in England than York, so our first stop was there, but as York is a big tourist centre it was full of all sorts of accents, but as I was at uni in Leeds, close by, I was already well familiar with the West Yorkshire accent.
Heading further south the Midlands accent took over and we stopped off at Warwick, to have a look at the magnificent castle, and we stopped the night a wee bit further on at Stratford-upon-Avon, the home of old Will. Again, masses of tourists -accents were international, and the people at the guest house we stayed at were all rather posh English English RP.
Next day, down the Fosse Way, a road which stretched on and on and on across the lush English countryside - a busy modern highway now but it still follows the route of the old Roman road, the Fosse Way. Down into the Cotswolds where the scenery was out of this world - gorgeous towns and villages all built of Cotswold stone, which is a sort of light golden fawn colour. All the people in the pubs and shops seemed to speak standard RP, although in Stow-on-the Wold the main street buzzed with American accents!
Beyond the Cotswolds, past the city of Bristol (which looks really nice but very hilly!) and into Somerset - truly in the West Country now. We made directly for Glastonbury, for obvious reasons - apart from the famous rock festival it is amazingly historic, and is reputedly the spot where Joseph of Arimathea planted a thornbush on the slopes of Glastonbury Tor (a steep hill with an ancient castle on its summit) and the thornbush flowers to this day although protected by an iron railing. Everyone in the shops and pubs in Glastonbury sounded quite standard RP, quite posh sounding at times.
Into Devon, where we stayed the night just beyond Exeter...still mostly RP (ignoring the many non Brit accents knocking around - lots of Dutch people for some reason!). Next day tearing along the A30, over the river Tamar just past Plymouth and we were into Cornwall at last - and already it didn't "look" like England and more. We were in another Celtic region, and the names were different, the landscape looked different, and we began to see the St Piran flag, the Cornish flag flying here and there.
Cornwall is truly unique, and the coastline is amazing, all rocky cliffs and headlands and wee bays & coves and small fishing villages, and on the north coast lovely sandy beaches with huge waves, making this area the very best for surfing in the entire UK. We had a go at surfing when we were near Newquay a few days later.
It was in Cornwall that we heard the real West Country accent, but mostly it was from the older people. Everyone our own age spoke the universal RP type English English, even here in so called Celtic Cornwall, and only once did we find sometone who could speak Cornish, and he actually taught it in night school in Truro, Conrwall's capital city with a cathedral which only dated back to the mid 19th century, easily the newest of all British cathedrals.
One evening we had a good laugh with a group of people in a pub overlooking the wee harbour at Mousehole (pronounced "Mah-ooo-zl") - a former fishing village across the bay from Penzance and St Michael's Mount- a rocky island whichcan only be reached on foot at low tide. In this pub were a group of old guys quaffing ale from tankards and speaking in the real Cornish accent which to us may well have been Swahili for all we knew - we could hardly understand a word they said but that night was one good laugh! The meal we had in that pub was fantastic too - fish freshly caught that day.
I was disappointed in hearing Cornish being spoken only once, but it did die out once and was revived again in the 20th century by a small group of enthusiasts. It looks very similar to Welsh - that's no surprise at all, as they are blood bros after all, as are the Bretons just over on the other side of the Channel.
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